Exploring Chelsea on Foot
You will love this self-guided walking tour of London’s Chelsea neighborhood.
Chelsea is one of London’s loveliest, most walkable neighborhoods and well worth a day of exploration when the weather is favorable. This highly desirable neighborhood is full of 19th-century homes, colorful streets, chic boutiques, lush gardens, cozy pubs, and loads of British charm – you can easily spend a day winding through its historic streets from King’s Road to the River Thames.
This is the ultimate self-guided walk through Chelsea, taking you down the prettiest residential streets, past notable homes, and through a secret garden – with plenty of opportunities to pause for food and drink along the way. There are also several detour opportunities where you can divert from the route to explore even further.
The walk can be done at any pace you choose, but I recommend taking it easy. Start mid-morning, allowing enough time to do the walk and take time for detours, refreshments, and uninhibited wandering. You’ll cover some distance on this route, especially with detours. For your own sake, wear comfortable shoes.
I’ve created a companion map with the walking route, points of interest, and my recommendations for food and drink. Check it out!
The Walking Route
- Starting from Sloane Square underground station (Circle and District lines), you’ll head to Pavilion Road for a takeaway hot beverage and explore the elegant homes around Cadogan Gardens, making your way to King’s Road at Duke of York Square.
- From there, you’ll meander along Kings Road, temporarily diverting to wind through the prettiest residential streets.
- Walk through St. Luke’s Gardens, a lovely park on the site of a former burial ground
- After St. Luke’s, it’s a great time to pause for a meal and refreshments. My recommendations for the best places to stop for food and drink are included here.
- Making your way South to the River Thames, you’ll pass the homes of historic and literary notables.
- Enjoy the river views along Cheyne Walk and Chelsea Embankment, then turn Northward towards the Royal Hospital where you’ll find a secret apothecary garden and the Chelsea Flower Showgrounds.
- You will end the walk near Sloane Square where you began. From there and depending on your mood, you can choose to keep exploring or divert to other areas of the city.
While this walk certainly doesn’t cover the entirety of Chelsea, it hits the highlights and will give you a great feel for the vibe of the neighborhood.
To keep exploring, check out other sections of King’s Road, Fulham Road, or divert into Belgravia or South Kensington. The day is up to you – this guide will set you on the right path.
Best Time: Daytime
Distance (without detours): 3.1 miles
Distance (with detours): 4 miles
Duration: 3 to 8 hours, depending on your pace and stops
Weather: Choose a dry day
Sloane Square & Pavilion Road
Exiting the Sloane Square underground station, walk diagonally through Sloane Square towards Peter Jones department store and Tiffany & Co. Turn left onto Symons Street.
At Kate Spade, turn right onto Pavilion Road. This little road is London’s longest mews and the pedestrian-only section is lined with cute artisanal shops where you can get coffee, breakfast, or whatever you want. I recommend popping into Bread Ahead Bakery for a takeaway coffee or tea – the first part of this walk is best approached with a hot, caffeinated beverage in hand.
Cadogan Gardens to King’s Road
Walk down Pavilion Road until the ground becomes pavement at Cadogan Gardens (the second one) then turn left.
Turn left onto Cadogan Gardens again. To your right are the Cadogan Gardens, a private park for residents and guests. As you may have realized, all the perimeter streets are named Cadogan Gardens. You got this.
Several of these Victorian and Edwardian townhouses have been luxuriously restored and converted into five-star hotels, namely 11 Cadogan Gardens and The Draycott Hotel (26 Cadogan Gardens). If you’re feeling fancy at the end of the day, pop into 11 Cadogan Gardens for a fine cocktail at The Chelsea Bar. You can also book Afternoon Tea in advance. Keep your eyes peeled for celebs.
From Cadogan Gardens, turn right onto Draycott Place and continue enjoying the red brick homes that are characteristic of the Chelsea neighborhood (many are now apartments).
From Draycott Place, turn left onto Blackland’s Terrace.
Walk down Blackland’s Terrace towards King’s Road, stopping to admire John Sandoe Books, a beloved neighborhood bookstore. Pop in and have a look around if you like!
You’ll emerge onto King’s Road near Duke of York Square. On Saturdays, you’ll find a local food market here that’s worth a stop. Otherwise, keep walking – there will be plenty of opportunities for refreshment along the way.
Turn right down King’s Road.
King’s Road
In 1694, King Charles II had this road built to make traveling easier between his palaces at Whitehall and Hampton Court. The King’s Road functioned as a private road for royalty, courtiers, and aristocracy until it opened to the public in 1830.
In the 20th century, King’s Road (along with Soho) became the center of London’s fashion, music, activism, and youth culture. From the swinging 1960s to the 1980s punk scene, the shops, sidewalks, and bars along King’s Road served as a creative incubator for London to reinvent itself over and over again.
Thanks to the Yuppies of the 1980s who had plenty of cash to flash, the vibe evolved into one of exclusivity and sophistication. This trend continues today with posh boutiques, stunning interiors, and stratospheric real estate prices. Thankfully, the eccentric, artistic, and wildly independent nature of King’s Road can still be found if you know where to look.
Today, King’s Road is still the place to strut and shop in London. At about two miles long, you can cover the length on foot in a day while still finding time to wander and soak in the surroundings.
This walk covers a large portion of King’s Road, but there is more to discover at the east and west ends. At the west end, you’ll find Vivienne Westwood’s Worlds End boutique, known for its pioneering role in the rebellious punk aesthetic of the 1970s and 1980s and as the birthplace of the Sex Pistols.
All the Pretty Houses
For this section of the walk, we’ll meander west along King’s Road from Duke of York Square, branching off to enjoy picturesque streets lined with splendid, colorful homes. Get ready to explore and enjoy some of the most photogenic streets in London.
From King’s Road, turn right onto Lincoln Street, and walk into the neighborhood.
Turn left on Coulson Street, then left on Anderson Street, then right on King’s Road.
Continue on King’s Road for a short distance to Bywater Street and turn right. Take time to meander all the way to the end, taking photos of the pretty pastel houses. This is not a through street so you’ll turn around to get back on King’s Road.
Cross King’s Road and turn left on Smith Street. Walk until you reach Smith Terrace and turn right to enjoy a hidden, curved row of colorful terraced homes. Turn right on Radnor Walk to get back to King’s Road.
Optional Detour #1: Markham Street
Markham Street is a popular residential street with a rich history and an array of period homes, many of which have been painted in cheerful colors. If you can’t get enough of the pretty Chelsea homes, this street is worth a detour but you will need to circle back to King’s Road to stay on course.
This detour will also allow you to see a bit more of the Chelsea Common area where there are a variety of places for a snack or beverage.
From Radnor Walk or Jubilee Place (detour) turn onto Burnsall Street from King’s Road.
Godfrey Street
From Burnsall Street, follow the curving road onto Godfrey Street. These are some of the most colorful homes in Chelsea. I love this street!
At the end of Godfrey Street, you can choose to explore Chelsea Common (Chelsea Green) to your right or continue left onto Cale Street.
From Cale Street at St. Luke’s, you can turn left to walk through St. Luke’s Gardens or detour to Stewart’s Grove, another pretty street of homes.
Optional Detour #2: Stewart’s Grove
For this detour, continue on Cale Street and turn right onto Sydney Street. Turn left on Fulham Road then an immediate left on Stewart’s Grove. Fulham Road is a major road at the north end of Chelsea and is definitely worth exploring with more time.
Walk all the way down Stewart’s Grove to admire the homes, turn left on Cale Street, then walk diagonally through St. Luke’s Gardens on your right.
St. Luke’s Gardens
In the late 18th century, London witnessed a swift surge in its population, leading to overcrowding in the city and surrounding neighborhoods. In Chelsea, this meant a fresh burial ground was needed, leading to the establishment of St. Luke’s graveyard on this site in 1812.
Later, as the community continued to expand, existing parish churches struggled to accommodate their congregations. In 1820, construction began on St. Luke’s Church in the center of the new burial ground.
Notably, Charles Dickens married Catherine Hogarth at St. Luke’s Church in 1836 at the dawn of the writer’s fame.
In 1857, St Luke’s Gardens was no longer being used as a burial ground and was converted into a public garden in 1881.
Today, the gardens and church are frequented by residents and visitors and you’ll find lots of activity inside the park on sunny days. The gravestones were moved to the edges to form a boundary wall that is still there – take a look!
Bonus: Historic Neighborhood Pubs
Make your way through St. Luke’s Gardens to the southeast corner at Britten Street.
If you fancy a pint, there are two tucked-away historic pubs on Britten Street – The Sydney Arms (to the right) and The Builders Arms (to the left).
To continue on from Britten Street, walk west alongside St. Luke’s Gardens.
At Sydney Street, turn left and return to King’s Road.
Stay Awhile: Places to Eat & Drink
At this point, you’re probably ready for a meal and some refreshments. In this area along King’s Road, you’ll find a number of spots from medium-casual to upscale where you can pop in for a nibble or tipple. Remember, you don’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy a beautiful restaurant (and use their loo).
Here are my recommendations for the best places to eat and drink on this section of King’s Road in Chelsea:
Phat Phuc Noodle Bar
It’s not just a hilarious name. Phat Phuc Noodle Bar is a hidden gem and one of the best affordable, quick, and delicious meals in Chelsea. Hidden down some stairs in a shady courtyard, Phat Phuc serves a small Vietnamese menu from semi-outdoor kitchens with a few tables. To avoid waiting, come outside of peak times. Go for the Laska (£10-12), their signature noodle dish. Try it and let me know what you think!
Chelsea Farmer’s Market
You won’t find fresh produce at the Chelsea Farmer’s Market anymore, but you will find a cute, eclectic collection of small shops and eateries. A good spot to chill out for a little while.
Ivy Chelsea Garden
The gorgeous Ivy Chelsea Garden is perfect for an afternoon cocktail or snack. If there are seats at the bar, go for those. Don’t miss the pretty loos.
Chelsea Potter
The Chelsea Potter is a traditional British pub with a rock-and-roll history. Jimi Hendrix and The Rolling Stones were regulars here in the 1960s and 70s.
The Cadogan Arms
A Chelsea institution, The Cadogan Arms has been recently renovated and restored to its Victorian glory. This upscale pub is a lovely spot for lunch in stunning surroundings.
Their traditional Sunday Roast Menu is superb, and the regular menu features seasonal pub classics and British dishes at mid-range prices. There’s a nice selection of draught beers, craft cocktails, and a good wine list.
Bluebird Chelsea
Further west on King’s Road, The Bluebird Chelsea is a stylish neighborhood landmark in a historic Art Deco building that was once home to the Bluebird Motor Company, the largest garage in Europe during the 1920s. There is relaxed outdoor dining and a lounge on the ground floor and a more refined restaurant upstairs. The menu is modern European and the kitchen serves up some of the best food and drink in Chelsea. Reservations are recommended for groups and peak times.
Peggy Porschen
Peggy Porschen is a contemporary cake design trailblazer, and the flagship Chelsea parlour is a picture-perfect fairy tale in pastel pink. Snap a pic and move on or pop in for tea, cupcakes, or cocktails.
While the cafe menu is first come, first served, Afternoon Tea must be booked in advance.
Onward to the River Thames
Just past Peggy Porschen, turn left onto Bramerton Street. Follow Bramerton Street all the way down past rows of colorful doors.
Curve right onto Glebe Place, then continue onto Cheyne Row.
At 24 Cheyne Row, you’ll find Carlyle’s House which was the home of literary couple Thomas and Jane Carlyle from 1834 to 1881. Thomas Carlyle became an influential social commentator among the Victorian elite and Jane was an accomplished letter writer and sparkling hostess. Although an undesirable neighborhood at the time, their Chelsea home became a gathering place for London’s literary and intellectual giants, hosting Dickens, Tennyson, Thackeray, and others.
Today, their four-story townhouse is a time capsule of Victorian London with well-preserved rooms, antiques, artifacts, and a lovely walled garden. Currently, the house and museum are only open to the public on Wednesdays and you need to book a timed entry ticket in advance.
From Carlyle’s House, continue down Cheyne Row.
If you fancy a pint, make a right on Lordship Place and head over to The Cross Keys, a historic 18th-century pub tucked into the neighborhood.
Along the River Thames
From Cheyne Row or The Cross Keys, continue towards the river to Cheyne Walk.
Once you reach Cheyne Walk, turn left and walk up the residential side of the street with Chelsea Embankment Gardens on your right. This will give you the best perspective of the historic homes on this stretch of Cheyne Walk.
At the Albert Bridge Road/Oakley Street intersection, you can choose to continue on or take a quick detour.
Optional Detour #3 – Bob Marley’s House
From Cheyne Walk, turn left on Oakley Street and continue to #34 where Bob Marley once lived. Backtrack to Cheyne Walk and continue on.
Optional Detour #4 – Albert Bridge
From Cheyne Walk, turn right to admire the candy-colored Albert Bridge. Historic and picturesque, this is one of London’s oldest suspension bridges, once known as the “Trembling Lady” due to its shaky nature. Notice the sign alerting soldiers from nearby Chelsea Barracks to “break step when marching over this bridge“. These were installed at both ends of the bridge out of fear that a nearby bridge collapse disaster was caused by soldiers marching in unison.
There’s a set of stairs on the left where you can walk down to the Thames.
The small Albert Bridge Gardens on the right can also be explored.
Chelsea Embankment
After crossing Albert Bridge/Oakley Street, continue on Cheyne Walk, keeping the gardens on your right.
On this last stretch of Cheyne Walk, you’ll encounter the site of King Henry VIII’s Manor House and the house where novelist George Eliot died in 1880.
Along Cheyne Walk, there are several openings where you can step into Chelsea Embankment Gardens and have a look around.
At the end of Cheyne Walk, veer right towards the river and walk up Chelsea Embankment, marveling at the mighty Thames.
When you reach Swan Walk, look across the river for a great view of the London Peace Pagoda at Battersea Park.
Turn left onto Swan Walk and head away from the river. You can take a quick peek into Dilke Street and Clover Mews for some charming cobblestones.
Chelsea Physic Garden
Continue on Swan Walk to Chelsea Physic Garden. If the garden is open (daily except Saturday), definitely stop in for a visit.
Chelsea Physic Garden is London’s oldest botanical garden, established by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries in 1673 as a teaching garden for apprentices to learn about medicinal plants. Today, the garden contains more than 5,000 edible and healing plants.
This four-acre urban oasis is open to the public and serves as a center for plant science and horticulture, hosting events, tours, and educational programs throughout the year.
There is a modest entrance fee for self-guided exploration and a little cafe for refreshments. The garden is closed on Saturdays and hours vary by season – be sure to check the website for details. Come explore London’s secret garden!
From Chelsea Physic Garden, turn right on Royal Hospital Road.
Oscar Wilde’s House
At Tite Street, make a quick right to see the former home of Oscar Wilde – wit, dramatist, and one of London’s most famous eccentrics.
Oscar Wilde lived at 34 Tite Street with his wife Constance at the height of his fame, writing both The Picture of Dorian Gray and The Importance of Being Earnest in rooms on the ground floor. He lived here until 1895 when his scandalous arrest and conviction for ‘gross indecency’ (homosexuality) forced his eventual exile to Paris where he died young and broken.
This house saw some of the best years of his life. Secret doors, champagne, laughter, and lust. Man, if those walls could talk.
Personal story time. When my husband and I walked around Chelsea last year, we passed by this house and stopped to notice the blue plaque.
As we walked by, a woman was coming out the front door on her way to work. She noticed our interest and invited us inside to look around. Um…yes, please! She showed us the rooms on the ground floor where the writer worked, pointing out original details and areas that had been remodeled since Wilde’s time. Such a special treat, we will never forget it.
Return to Royal Hospital Road and continue on towards Royal Hospital Chelsea.
Royal Hospital & Flower Showgrounds
Founded in 1682, the Royal Hospital Chelsea is a retirement and nursing home for around 300 Chelsea Pensioners, veterans of the British Army. If you’re lucky, you might see Chelsea Pensioners in their handsome scarlet coats.
The expansive grounds also host the annual Chelsea Flower Show, one of Queen Elizabeth II’s favorite events.
When you reach Chelsea Bridge Road, your walking tour of Chelsea has come to an end. From here, you have choices.
What to Do From Here
Although this walking tour of Chelsea has come to an end, there’s plenty more to explore and discover. What are you in the mood for?
If you want to keep exploring…
There is plenty more of Chelsea to discover – this walk only covers a portion. You could explore the east and west sections of King’s Road that we didn’t hit. Or, you could cross King’s Road and head up Sloane Avenue to Fulham Road on the North side of Chelsea for more quaint streets, shopping, restaurants, and pubs.
Or, you could head into Belgravia or South Kensington to explore more of what London has to offer.
If you’re tired of walking…
Make a left onto Lower Sloane Street and head back to the Sloane Square underground station. Or, call a cab or Uber.
If you’re thirsty for a pint…
Continue straight onto Pimlico Road. Make a left on Passmore Street and head to the tucked-away Fox & Hounds Pub. This perfectly cozy neighborhood pub is best in the late afternoon where you can have a quiet pint before the evening crowd sets in.
From here, you can continue walking northeast towards Belgravia with its posh residential streets, lush squares, and international embassies. The historic Star Tavern is absolutely worth a stop if you wanted to head in this direction.
If you’re thirsty and feeling fancy…
Walk to 11 Cadogan Gardens Hotel for a fine cocktail at The Chelsea Bar.
If you’re hungry…
Head into Belgravia via Pimlico Road. There are a number of mid-range to upscale restaurants around.
Or, head back into Chelsea and make your way to King’s Road, Sloane Square, or Fulham Road where there are lots of food options.
Notable Addresses in Chelsea
On this walking tour of Chelsea, history lovers should keep an eye out for blue plaques on the front of homes and businesses, marking the one-time residences and workplaces of notable people.
Below are the addresses of some Chelsea residents you might recognize:
- Thomas Carlyle, Essayist & Historian: 5 Cheyne Row – open to the public
- George Eliot, Writer: 4 Cheyne Walk
- Henry VIII’s Manor House: 19-26 Cheyne Walk
- James Whistler, Painter: 96 Cheyne Walk
- Sylvia Pankhurst, Women’s Rights Activist: 120 Cheyne Walk
- Samuel Beckett, Writer: 48 Paultons Square
- Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens), Writer: 23 Tedworth Square
- Sir Alexander Fleming, Scientist: 20a Danvers Street
- Bob Marley, Musician: 42 Oakley Street
- Oscar Wilde, Wit and Dramatist: 34 Tite Street
- John Singer Sargent, Painter: 31 & 33 Tite Street
- Bram Stoker, Writer: 19 St. Leonard’s Terrace
